More about knickers

Handmade underwear update

It has been about a year since I published this video about how to make your own hand stitched knickers. 
  
In making this video I could expand my knickers collection and now after a year I thought it was time to produce some more. Why? Because the few knickers from the high street, that I did not throw away in case I could not keep up with laundry tasks, are just too uncomfortable in comparison. And I also have a bit of Organic Cotton/Bamboo Jersey left over.

As I am currently experimenting whether working with the machine can come close to the hand-stitched-experience but also to see if I can produce slightly more economic garments with similar effect, I thought I give this project a try on the machine. 
I am writing this post also because some DIY friends possibly did not dare to try to make their own underwear because of the hand stitched madness or not enough time. So now there are no more excuses not to wear the most comfortable underwear ever!

If you watched the video you know how to make a pattern for this project. First you pin the side seams, as in the film, but try to use fewer pins, 3 would do and make sure you pin perpendicular to the sewing direction, you don't want to break the needle. I use a Gutterman sew all thread for the top feed, that is 100% polyester, for the bobbin I use Seraflock, that is a very stretchy thread normally used for swimwear. My machine is a very very old Singer with only the basic stitches. Set the machine to a wide zigzag stitch and put in a needle for stretch material. Let the foot come down so all material is under it, because that avoids problems with the material and thread forming a big knot. Also keep hold of the threads before you start as this helps to prevent these issues as well.
And after a couple of stitches reverse and sew backwards almost to the very edge. Almost because again you don't want to start the argument. Repeat once you arrived at the end of the seam. 

For the leg opening it is a bit different. Use only a few pins like before, and the same setting, but this time don't reverse. The reason for this is that you want no tension between material and thread. (Across the grain you have more stretch.) You know when you put on a garment and it goes ratsch and the thread snapped? So leave about 2 inches of thread in the beginning and then when you went all the way around instead of reversing, overlap the beginning and ending for about 2 inches, before you trim leave some thread. Now bring the hem between your index finger and thumb and stroke around the hem, at least once, you will feel movement between thread and material. Do this until the leg opening feels comfortable when you stretch it, so the thread won't snap when you pull it. Now you can trim.

The elastic band works the same way, only a few pins, 8 should do. Do not reverse but overlap and stroke the finished seam until you cannot feel any tension, trim.

Although it doesn't look nowhere near as good as made by hand - I just love the herringbone stitch, the result is very comfortable and you are prepared and ready to go on holiday in no time ......

Stuck and a Rug

A Bouncy Castle is not all

It would be great if all would just work out, now. But then again I have learnt so often that delay can be much better. Knowing that, it doesn't make the path I am walking any easier.

 I have taken my oldest son to a Fancy Dress Party and I will confess I have to practice this. From choosing a costume, although this was not too bad, to actually going there. Little girls can scream very loud and pitchy and conversation would not flow easily after a sleepless night and a very early start. But there was a bouncy castle and pink cake and all went well. But arriving at home I could not let the day end with a bouncy castle. Sewing was no choice as I could have fallen asleep standing but also because the kids had still a lot of energy that needed to be channeled. But I could gather all the too small T-Shirts together and make a yarn out of them and start crocheting with my handmade mega hook.


Sad tha all is stuck at the moment, as it feels so great to create what I want to create but also excited to finally make the  bathroom mat I could not find anywhere.

And it is so extremely super soft!

Bikini Top (Pattern)

Change the fabric and seam colour and have a new Bikini Top whenever you need it!

Once again this project started with a need. To go aqua running I needed a Bikini Top that is safe enough to wear and not to worry.

I usually find sportive bikinis too thick in material and not feminine enough, so I decided to create one myself. But it also seems that I want to be surrounded by handmade only. This is the second one I made for myself and they are both in constant use and test and I love them! But see for yourself.

If you enjoyed watching this movie please do't forget to share it. Thank you.
♥ handmade

If you watched the movie you can start now! All you need is Lycra, buttonhole Thread, a needle (sharps NO4), thin pins, fabric scissors, paper and paper scissors for the pattern (to repeat), a mat and a rotary cutter (optional).

The pattern is a fusion of a Bikini and a Tank Top. You can use a bra or bikini Top for reference (cup size) or just measure how wide the cup needs to be so you will feel safe. I cut the opening as low as possible but again not too deep to keep it safe. You will need 1 cm seam allowance. The band around the ribcage is 2 cm wide and 2x folded, which makes it very comfortable and strong enough to pull it tight.

The first version I made is black with a pattern and red seams, this new one is grey-ish with yellow seams, both very thin and comfortable. If you ask me now where are the pants for the Bikini Top I have to confess I had no time yet. But I guess you made your own Hand stitched knickers over and over again so I am sure you will finish your Bikini pants in no time and before I do ;)

How to sew knickers (pattern)

An easy DIY sewing-project to make Hand stitched Knickers and the pattern to reproduce them again

This is to complete the movie that you might have watched.

and NEW: choose Lycra for some swim pants and make your Bikini Top aswell...

. . . tools
. very good material like Bamboo/Cotton Jersey with some elastane
. knickers elastic band

. Buttonhole thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Sharps needle No4

. thin pins

. tailor's chalk

. pattern paper or similar
. pencil & paper scissors
. a plastic ruler
. iron 

. and your favorite pairs of knickers

... preparation
You do not need to ruin your favorite pairs of knickers! I did it to make an accurate pattern and it is easier to demonstrate how to do so. But it is also possible to trace around your favorite knickers without cutting into them, just more fiddly.
Cut open or not, trace around your knickers and transfer the shape to paper. Cut the template out using your paper scissors, fold it in half and see whether it is symmetrical. If not, average it and transfer the half again onto paper, this leaves you with your pattern. (As the fabric will be folded in half you only need the half pattern)

Half your fabric along the grain line, and trace the outline of your pattern using tailor's chalk. Cut it out on the inner side of your chalk line.


. . . construction
Right sides facing each other pin both side seams, 1 cm away from the edge. 

Thread your needle. Make one single knot close to the edge and make a double knot about 7 mm further up. Start sewing with making a loop (up through the fabric, around the edge and up through the fabric again right next to the previous hole) and continue in a straight line a straight stitch, try to stay about 1 cm from the edge and keep the stitches even. 

When you reached the end run your fingers along the stitches finding the right tension between fabric and thread. Finish with a loop and knot off, first make a double knot close to the fabric using your nails to gently push it there and a single knot a bit further away, trim.
Repeat on the other side.

Turn the knickers to the right side, separate the seams and fold them to each side and pin. Repeat on the other side.

Thread your needle, make the single and double knot and loop your thread through both seams around both edges, basically make a loop on each side and come up again to start the first bottom part of the cross stitch. The top part of the cross stitch is exactly the same but moved to the right. You always come up again where the last stitch ended. Down and through the fabric for the bottom part, come up again to finish the bottom part where the last top stitch ended and move to the top part and through the fabric again, up and so on. Finished one side, make the 2 loops and the knots, trim and repeat on the other side. 

Keep the top and bottom part of your cross stitch in a line, so the stitch looks regular. If you have to restart with a new thread make your knots and continue. 
For more details see also my cross stitch blog post.

Turn the knickers to the wrong side and fold 1 cm for the leg seam over and pin. Do this for both legs and repeat the cross stitch. Iron the seams, thread the needle, make the knots and start with the cross stitch. Finished with both legs there is only the elastic band to attach.

Use as much elastic band as comfortable and add about 2 cm for overlap. Start pinning at the back, half the elastic band and pin again, and so on till you have pinned all the way around.

Thread your needle, make the knots and start sewing a cross stitch next to the overlap (so you go over the overlap in the end). Stretch the elastic band while sewing the cross stitch all the way around, carefully to keep it aligned.

Finished!

The Knickers Project

How to make a pattern & Hand stitched Knickers

This project has waited a long time now to be realized. I always wanted to make my own knickers facing the problem that I could never find the favorite pairs of knickers again. 
I don't know why but I always thought knickers are too demanding to make yourself but the reality is much more pleasant: 

Easily done, easily repeated over and over again and soooo comfortable!

But see for yourself!

Energy boost

Excitement of the unknown

Tired or not I am generated by excitement of new projects and their outcome. I have an idea and and this boost drives me as fast as possible to realize it.

The mat is out, so is the Organic Cotton/Bamboo Jersey, which is  already a pleasure in itself to work with, a fine smooth material. . . .
And soon I will know. . .

How-to sew a Hand stitched skirt

A DIY-sewing project by i can cu

Now, after practicing the Cross stitch ;)it is time to start the first project. It should be the season of showing more leg but it is also nice to wear one over leggings or tights, a skirt. This project is easy and can be repeated over and over again, shorter, longer, softer, brighter . . 

What you need
. Stretchy Jersey (anything that drapes nicely)
. Bottom seam of a T-shirt or a fold-over elastic band
. Thin Pins
. Gutermann Buttonhole / Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Embroidery Scissors
. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Cutting Matt
. Plastic Ruler
. Tape Measure
. Rotary Cutter
. Tailor's chalk or an erasable pen
. Fabric scissors

Measurements
First measure around your waist, your hips and around the widest part of your bottom.

Ready?
Half the fabric, align it and cut the edges straight (on one side, which will be the raw end of the skirt).Choose the length of your skirt, mark it and cut again.Cut the fabric in half now along the grain line using your fabric scissors, which leaves you with 2 halves of your skirt.Take one half and half it again along the grain line. Transfer the measurements taken earlier starting from the edge: first the waist measurement, leaving a 10 cm gap, then mark the hip measurement, leaving again a 10 cm gap and then mark the last measurement.Connect these 3 marks with your chalk or erasable pen, add 1 cm for seam allowance and cut, using your rotary cutter. Repeat the same for the other half. Half this half, transfer your measurements leaving a 10 cm gap between them, connect the marks and add 1 cm seam allowance and cut. If you don't like the angle and it would make your skirt too wide or too narrow, slightly adapt it but leave the waist measurement at the original point or very close to it, otherwise your waistband will have to accommodate too much fabric and this will make it very wavy.

Assembling
Now you can start pinning. Assemble both skirt halves, right sides facing each other, pin both ends first, which helps to align the fabric and then pin the rest, repeat for the other side.

Take about 2.5 skirt lengths of your thread and cut it in an angle to thread your needle  easier. Make one single knot close to the edge and make a double knot about 7 mm further up. See here and here for knot details.

Start sewing with making a loop (up through the fabric, around the edge and up through the fabric again right next to the previous hole) and continue in a straight line a straight stitch, try to stay about 8 mm from the edge and keep the stitches even.

When you reached the end run your fingers along the stitches finding the right tension between fabric and thread. Finish with a loop and knot off, first make a double knot close to the fabric using your nails to gently push it there and a single knot a bit further away, trim.

Repeat on the other side. The single knot, the double knot, loop around the edge, the straight stitch, adjusting the tension, the loop, double knot, single knot, trim.
Turn the skirt to the right side and fold one seam to the back and start pinning. On the other side fold the seam the same way, so they both face back and pin too.

The Cross Stitch
Thread the needle, make a single and double knot and loop the thread around the edge of your fabric. Choose to loop through the folded seam (thicker). Come up again through the fabric (below the created line) making the first bottom part of the cross stitch. 
The top part of the cross stitch is exactly the same but moved to the right. You always come up again where the last stitch ended.

Down and through the fabric for the bottom part, come up again to finish the bottom part where the last top stitch ended and move to the top part and through the fabric again, up and so on. Finished one side, make a loop and the knots, trim and repeat on the other side. Keep the top and bottom part of your cross stitch in a line, so the stitch looks regular. If you have to restart with a new thread make your knots and continue. More details for the cross stitch here. 

The Waist Band

Use as much waist band as comfortable around your waist and add 2 cm for overlap. 
Start pinning at the back, half the elastic band, and pin again. Quarter the elastic band and pin. . . Pin you way around, and keep checking that the fabric is fully tucked in while stretching it.Start sewing a cross stitch next to the overlap (so you go over the overlap in the end). The first few stitches can be tricky but as soon as you moved along it will be easier to find a rhythm again. Do the cross stitch all the way around so the last stitch meshes the first. Knot off, trim. Finished!I hope you enjoyed making this skirt, here is the movie this project is referring to. Thank you and see you at i can cu!

the movie. . .DIY-skirt

I did it!

This is only the proud announcement that I finished my first movie! I almost crashed my computer and have increased my coffee intake drastically but it was a lot of fun too! 

More about this project later! See you at I can cu . . .

Cross action (DIY cross stitch)

Cross stitching practice

You never know when you will need this gorgeous cross stitch - 
it might be very soon ;) 
So if you have a moment give it a try.

To sew a Hand stitched top or to mend jeans this cross stitch is versatile and an eye-catcher and stretchy!

You need: 

Material of your choice pinned, a needle (sharps#4), buttonhole thread and embroidery/fabric scissors.

THE KNOTS

Take about 2 arm's lengths of your thread or whatever length feels comfortable and thread your needle. 

Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying.
And then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start and end.
(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)



For the cross stitch create 2 imaginary lines and let the cross stitch run along them. I usually choose to hold the fabric like shown below, with the seam folded upwards. (If you sew from the edge start with making a loop around the edge like shown at the infinity scarf project here: http://icancu4more.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/diy-hand-stitched-infinity-scarf.html)

THE CROSS STITCH

Come up on the top (after the loop if you sew from the edge) and make the first bottom part of the cross stitch while moving a cross stitch width to the right.

The top part is exactly the same as the bottom part but moved to the right and then the next bottom part is again exactly the same as the top part moved to the right, the rhythm is determined by the width of your stitch.

Keep your top and bottom parts of your cross stitch in a line so your stitch looks regular with a nice rhythm.

KNOT OFF
End as you started (if you sew from the edge end by creating a loop from the back, around to the front and back again right next to the last stitch) and knot off using first the double knot. Slide the first knot of the double knot with your nail close to the fabric but do not pull the thread while doing this. Repeat for the second knot of the double knot. Followed by the single knot about 1cm away, trim.

Sometimes it can take a while to create a nice rhythm but start at a non prominent place.

And now you can watch The movie to learn the Cross Stitch:

If you enjoyed watching this movie, please don't forget to like and share it, thank you!

2 steps forward . . .

. . and some Hand stitched Tops for ME!

The good thing about test and preparation phases is that MY wardrobe expands. Otherwise - well. I have to confess I am impatient. But actually that is not completely true, I think I am so very excited and want to see the outcome - especially this one, so I get impatient about things and their own timing. 

At the moment I feel like a tiger in a zoo trying to get out. I cannot move right now, I wait, have coffee and finish my newly graded tops. 

Waiting is actually only annoying when I resist it and that is why I am writing this blog post. I had coffee already twice, the kids are out and I am enjoying the different setting. 



It is not the working day I had planned. 

But there will be another one and I might get some steps closer next time. . . exciting! Stay tuned.

Yoga socks ready for their journey

From fabric to packaging

I had a good working day. . .and a very busy one. I prepared a pair of Hand stitched yoga socks 

for their journey and doing that included packaging and screen printing. I happened to have some hours on my own which is a rare occurence and only arises spontaneously and is completely impossible to plan. So I enjoyed myself and only stopped for a brief break for my yoga set and a snack.
My working day has not finished yet but for now I will devote myself to my family . . .

DIY Hand stitched infinity scarf

DIY Hand stitched infinity scarf / head band / necklace / accessories / emergency scarf for freezing kids . . .

I don't think I have enough infinity scarves. My first Hand stitched infinity scarf was made out of a bit of scrap material. I found a piece of cashmere knit exactly the right size to fit twice around my head. The material (rectangle) was longer along the grain line which was fine for me because it stretches less this way and is perfect for a headband that keeps its shape.

So that is how my infinity scarf production started and I adapted it in many different ways. One for example is made out of the leftovers of an Organic Cotton jersey top I made and turned into a scarf with lots of necklaces. Another one is made of a warm knit and a bit wider so I can pull it over my head and it is very warming and cozy. . . So if you would like to stitch your own infinity scarf by hand, 
this is what you need:
. Fabric - anything that does not fray but stretches
. Cutting Matt
. Rotary Knife (optional)
. Plastic Ruler
. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Gutermann Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Thin Pins
. Embroidery Scissors
. Fabric Scissors

STEP ONE

First decide what shape your infinity scarf should have. This project demonstrates a thinner version, that serves as a headband but also a necklace or scarf. 
The width should fit twice around your head, add about 1.5cm for seam allowance. The height is about 33cm but again decide what suits your purpose. The grain line runs with the length of the rectangle.

STEP TWO

Then pin the (shorter) edges (pic 2).

I usually fold the material so the wrong side is inside and the felled seam you will create will be outside. The reason for this: When you wear the scarf it twists and so when the inside is visible it looks neat and still attractive and the seam being placed on the outside gives another element to look at (pic 5+6).

STEP THREE 
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying and then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start.(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)

(fot the knot also see http://icancu4more.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/diy-hand-stitched-wash-bag.html) 

Start stitching. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up very close to the first hole which seems to give it more hold. Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch. 

The stitches should have a nice rhythm. Too wide leaves a gap, too narrow might ruin the fabric. When you reached the end run your finger along the stitching from the beginning to the end to find the right tension between fabric and thread. Too tight and the fabric looses its stretch, too loose and the thread makes loops. 

Finish as you started. Loop the last stitch around to the front and down next to the same hole, make a double knot in the same place (on the wrong side) by using your nail and a single knot further away, trim the thread. Ideally both knots the first one and the last one are on the same side.

STEP FOUR

Pin the seams to the side where your knots are (so they will hide under the seam). Thread your needle, it is nice to use a contrasting colour for this eye-catching cross stitch. 

The start is the same as for the straight stitch by looping your thread around the edge. Come up next to the loop and make the first bottom part of the cross stitch, the needle should come up at the same distance from the edge as the stitch that came up next to the loop. The top part is exactly the same as the bottom part but moved to the right and you come up at the same distance from the edge as the last stitch that came up on the bottom. . . Keep your top and bottom parts of your cross stitch in a line so your stitch looks regular with a nice rhythm. In the last pic you can see the wrong side. 

End as you started by creating a loop that goes to the back right next to the last stitch. Knot off and trim.

Enjoy!

And now you can also watch The movie for making a Hand stitched infinity scarf:

If you enjoyed watching this movie please don't forget to like an share it, thank you!!! ♥ handmade!