I want to offer some projects to do it yourself . . .
Click on the image or scroll further down for some instructions.
index from top to bottom (newest post to first post)
. How to sew knickers (pattern). How-to make a Hand stitched skirt
. Cross stitching (DIY)
. DIY Hand stitched infinity scarf
. Cosmetic Pouch/Wash Bag/Gadget Bag easy project with straight stitch
. Packaging for light gifts/get familiar with stitching by hand
An easy DIY sewing-project to make Hand stitched Knickers and the pattern to reproduce them again
This is to complete the movie that you might have watched.
. . . tools
. very good material like Bamboo/Cotton Jersey with some elastane. knickers elastic band. Sharps needle No4. thin pins. tailor's chalk. Buttonhole thread in colour(s) of your choice. pattern paper or similar. pencil & paper scissors. a plastic ruler. iron . and your favorite pairs of knickers
... preparation
You do not need to ruin your favorite pairs of knickers! I did it to make an accurate pattern and it is easier to demonstrate how to do so. But it is also possible to trace around your favorite knickers without cutting into them, just more fiddly.Cut open or not, trace around your knickers and transfer the shape to paper. Cut the template out using your paper scissors, fold it in half and see whether it is symmetrical. If not, average it and transfer the half again onto paper, this leaves you with your pattern. (As the fabric will be folded in half you only need the half pattern)Right sides facing each other pin both side seams, 1 cm away from the edge. Repeat on the other side.
For more details see also my cross stitch blog post.Half your fabric along the grain line, and trace the outline of your pattern using tailor's chalk. Cut it out on the inner side of your chalk line.
. . . construction
Thread your needle. Make one single knot close to the edge and make a double knot about 7 mm further up. Start sewing with making a loop (up through the fabric, around the edge and up through the fabric again right next to the previous hole) and continue in a straight line a straight stitch, try to stay about 1 cm from the edge and keep the stitches even. When you reached the end run your fingers along the stitches finding the right tension between fabric and thread. Finish with a loop and knot off, first make a double knot close to the fabric using your nails to gently push it there and a single knot a bit further away, trim.Turn the knickers to the right side, separate the seams and fold them to each side and pin. Repeat on the other side.
Thread your needle, make the single and double knot and loop your thread through both seams around both edges, basically make a loop on each side and come up again to start the first bottom part of the cross stitch. The top part of the cross stitch is exactly the same but moved to the right. You always come up again where the last stitch ended. Down and through the fabric for the bottom part, come up again to finish the bottom part where the last top stitch ended and move to the top part and through the fabric again, up and so on. Finished one side, make the 2 loops and the knots, trim and repeat on the other side. Keep the top and bottom part of your cross stitch in a line, so the stitch looks regular. If you have to restart with a new thread make your knots and continue. 
Turn the knickers to the wrong side and fold 1 cm for the leg seam over and pin. Do this for both legs and repeat the cross stitch. Iron the seams, thread the needle, make the knots and start with the cross stitch. Finished with both legs there is only the elastic band to attach.Use as much elastic band as comfortable and add about 2 cm for overlap. Start pinning at the back, half the elastic band and pin again, and so on till you have pinned all the way around.Thread your needle, make the knots and start sewing a cross stitch next to the overlap (so you go over the overlap in the end). Stretch the elastic band while sewing the cross stitch all the way around, carefully to keep it aligned.Finished!
How to make a Hand stitched skirt
Now, after practicing the Cross stitch ;)it is time to start the first project. It should be the season of showing more leg but it is also nice to wear one over leggings or tights, a skirt. This project is easy and can be repeated over and over again, shorter, longer, softer, brighter . .
What you need
. Stretchy Jersey (anything that drapes nicely)
. Bottom seam of a T-shirt or a fold-over elastic band
. Thin Pins
. Gutermann Buttonhole / Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Embroidery Scissors. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Gutermann Buttonhole / Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Embroidery Scissors. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Cutting Matt
. Plastic Ruler
. Tape Measure
. Rotary Cutter
. Tailor's chalk or an erasable pen
. Fabric scissors
Measurements
First measure around your waist, your hips and around the widest part of your bottom.
Ready?
Half the fabric, align it and cut the edges straight (on one side, which will be the raw end of the skirt).Choose the length of your skirt, mark it and cut again.Cut the fabric in half now along the grain line using your fabric scissors, which leaves you with 2 halves of your skirt.Take one half and half it again along the grain line. Transfer the measurements taken earlier starting from the edge: first the waist measurement, leaving a 10 cm gap, then mark the hip measurement, leaving again a 10 cm gap and then mark the last measurement.Connect these 3 marks with your chalk or erasable pen, add 1 cm for seam allowance and cut, using your rotary cutter. Repeat the same for the other half. Half this half, transfer your measurements leaving a 10 cm gap between them, connect the marks and add 1 cm seam allowance and cut. If you don't like the angle and it would make your skirt too wide or too narrow, slightly adapt it but leave the waist measurement at the original point or very close to it, otherwise your waistband will have to accommodate too much fabric and this will make it very wavy.
Assembling
Now you can start pinning. Assemble both skirt halves, right sides facing each other, pin both ends first, which helps to align the fabric and then pin the rest, repeat for the other side.
Take about 2.5 skirt lengths of your thread and cut it in an angle to thread your needle easier. Make one single knot close to the edge and make a double knot about 7 mm further up. See here and here for knot details.
Start sewing with making a loop (up through the fabric, around the edge and up through the fabric again right next to the previous hole) and continue in a straight line a straight stitch, try to stay about 8 mm from the edge and keep the stitches even.
When you reached the end run your fingers along the stitches finding the right tension between fabric and thread. Finish with a loop and knot off, first make a double knot close to the fabric using your nails to gently push it there and a single knot a bit further away, trim.
Repeat on the other side. The single knot, the double knot, loop around the edge, the straight stitch, adjusting the tension, the loop, double knot, single knot, trim.
Turn the skirt to the right side and fold one seam to the back and start pinning. On the other side fold the seam the same way, so they both face back and pin too.
The Cross Stitch
Thread the needle, make a single and double knot and loop the thread around the edge of your fabric. Choose to loop through the folded seam (thicker). Come up again through the fabric (below the created line) making the first bottom part of the cross stitch.
The top part of the cross stitch is exactly the same but moved to the right. You always come up again where the last stitch ended.
Down and through the fabric for the bottom part, come up again to finish the bottom part where the last top stitch ended and move to the top part and through the fabric again, up and so on. Finished one side, make a loop and the knots, trim and repeat on the other side. Keep the top and bottom part of your cross stitch in a line, so the stitch looks regular. If you have to restart with a new thread make your knots and continue. 
More details for the cross stitch here.
The Waist Band
Use as much waist band as comfortable around your waist and add 2 cm for overlap.
Start pinning at the back, half the elastic band, and pin again. Quarter the elastic band and pin. . . Pin you way around, and keep checking that the fabric is fully tucked in while stretching it.Start sewing a cross stitch next to the overlap (so you go over the overlap in the end). The first few stitches can be tricky but as soon as you moved along it will be easier to find a rhythm again. 
Do the cross stitch all the way around so the last stitch meshes the first. Knot off, trim. Finished!I hope you enjoyed making this skirt, here is the movie this project is referring to. Thank you and see you at i can cu!
. Plastic Ruler
. Tape Measure
. Rotary Cutter
. Tailor's chalk or an erasable pen
. Fabric scissors
Measurements
First measure around your waist, your hips and around the widest part of your bottom.
Ready?
Half the fabric, align it and cut the edges straight (on one side, which will be the raw end of the skirt).Choose the length of your skirt, mark it and cut again.Cut the fabric in half now along the grain line using your fabric scissors, which leaves you with 2 halves of your skirt.Take one half and half it again along the grain line. Transfer the measurements taken earlier starting from the edge: first the waist measurement, leaving a 10 cm gap, then mark the hip measurement, leaving again a 10 cm gap and then mark the last measurement.Connect these 3 marks with your chalk or erasable pen, add 1 cm for seam allowance and cut, using your rotary cutter. Repeat the same for the other half. Half this half, transfer your measurements leaving a 10 cm gap between them, connect the marks and add 1 cm seam allowance and cut. If you don't like the angle and it would make your skirt too wide or too narrow, slightly adapt it but leave the waist measurement at the original point or very close to it, otherwise your waistband will have to accommodate too much fabric and this will make it very wavy.
Half the fabric, align it and cut the edges straight (on one side, which will be the raw end of the skirt).Choose the length of your skirt, mark it and cut again.Cut the fabric in half now along the grain line using your fabric scissors, which leaves you with 2 halves of your skirt.Take one half and half it again along the grain line. Transfer the measurements taken earlier starting from the edge: first the waist measurement, leaving a 10 cm gap, then mark the hip measurement, leaving again a 10 cm gap and then mark the last measurement.Connect these 3 marks with your chalk or erasable pen, add 1 cm for seam allowance and cut, using your rotary cutter. Repeat the same for the other half. Half this half, transfer your measurements leaving a 10 cm gap between them, connect the marks and add 1 cm seam allowance and cut. If you don't like the angle and it would make your skirt too wide or too narrow, slightly adapt it but leave the waist measurement at the original point or very close to it, otherwise your waistband will have to accommodate too much fabric and this will make it very wavy.
Assembling
Now you can start pinning. Assemble both skirt halves, right sides facing each other, pin both ends first, which helps to align the fabric and then pin the rest, repeat for the other side.
Take about 2.5 skirt lengths of your thread and cut it in an angle to thread your needle easier. Make one single knot close to the edge and make a double knot about 7 mm further up. See here and here for knot details.Start sewing with making a loop (up through the fabric, around the edge and up through the fabric again right next to the previous hole) and continue in a straight line a straight stitch, try to stay about 8 mm from the edge and keep the stitches even.
When you reached the end run your fingers along the stitches finding the right tension between fabric and thread. Finish with a loop and knot off, first make a double knot close to the fabric using your nails to gently push it there and a single knot a bit further away, trim.
Repeat on the other side. The single knot, the double knot, loop around the edge, the straight stitch, adjusting the tension, the loop, double knot, single knot, trim.
Turn the skirt to the right side and fold one seam to the back and start pinning. On the other side fold the seam the same way, so they both face back and pin too.
Thread the needle, make a single and double knot and loop the thread around the edge of your fabric. Choose to loop through the folded seam (thicker). Come up again through the fabric (below the created line) making the first bottom part of the cross stitch.
The top part of the cross stitch is exactly the same but moved to the right. You always come up again where the last stitch ended.
Down and through the fabric for the bottom part, come up again to finish the bottom part where the last top stitch ended and move to the top part and through the fabric again, up and so on. Finished one side, make a loop and the knots, trim and repeat on the other side. Keep the top and bottom part of your cross stitch in a line, so the stitch looks regular. If you have to restart with a new thread make your knots and continue. 
More details for the cross stitch here. The Waist Band
Use as much waist band as comfortable around your waist and add 2 cm for overlap.
Start pinning at the back, half the elastic band, and pin again. Quarter the elastic band and pin. . . Pin you way around, and keep checking that the fabric is fully tucked in while stretching it.Start sewing a cross stitch next to the overlap (so you go over the overlap in the end). The first few stitches can be tricky but as soon as you moved along it will be easier to find a rhythm again.Do the cross stitch all the way around so the last stitch meshes the first. Knot off, trim. Finished!I hope you enjoyed making this skirt, here is the movie this project is referring to. Thank you and see you at i can cu!
Start pinning at the back, half the elastic band, and pin again. Quarter the elastic band and pin. . . Pin you way around, and keep checking that the fabric is fully tucked in while stretching it.Start sewing a cross stitch next to the overlap (so you go over the overlap in the end). The first few stitches can be tricky but as soon as you moved along it will be easier to find a rhythm again.
Do the cross stitch all the way around so the last stitch meshes the first. Knot off, trim. Finished!I hope you enjoyed making this skirt, here is the movie this project is referring to. Thank you and see you at i can cu!Cross stitching practice
You never know when you will need this gorgeous cross stitch -
it might be very soon ;)
So if you have a moment give it a try.
To sew a Hand stitched top or to mend jeans this cross stitch is versatile and an eye-catcher and stretchy!
You need:
Material of your choice pinned, a needle (sharps#4), buttonhole thread and embroidery/fabric scissors.
THE KNOTS
Take about 2 arm's lengths of your thread or whatever length feels comfortable and thread your needle.
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying.
And then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start and end.
(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)
For the cross stitch create 2 imaginary lines and let the cross stitch run along them. I usually choose to hold the fabric like shown below, with the seam folded upwards. (If you sew from the edge start with making a loop around the edge like shown at the infinity scarf project here: http://icancu4more.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/diy-hand-stitched-infinity-scarf.html)
THE CROSS STITCH
Come up on the top (after the loop if you sew from the edge) and make the first bottom part of the cross stitch while moving a cross stitch width to the right.
The top part is exactly the same as the bottom part but moved to the right and then the next bottom part is again exactly the same as the top part moved to the right, the rhythm is determined by the width of you stitch.
Keep your top and bottom parts of your cross stitch in a line so your stitch looks regular with a nice rhythm.
KNOT OFF
End as you started (if you sew from the edge end by creating a loop from the back, around to the front and back again right next to the last stitch) and knot off using first the double knot. Slide the first knot of the double knot with your nail close to the fabric but do not pull the thread while doing this. Repeat for the second knot of the double knot. Followed by the single knot about 1cm away, trim.
Sometimes it can take a while to create a nice rhythm but start at a non prominent place.
DIY Hand stitched infinity scarf / head band / necklace / accessories / emergency scarf for freezing kids . . .
I don't think I have enough infinity scarves. My first Hand stitched infinity scarf was made out of a bit of scrap material. I found a piece of cashmere knit exactly the right size to fit twice around my head. The material (rectangle) was longer along the grain line which was fine for me because it stretches less this way and is perfect for a headband that keeps its shape.
So that is how my infinity scarf production started and I adapted it in many different ways. One for example is made out of the leftovers of an Organic Cotton jersey top I made and turned into a scarf with lots of necklaces. Another one is made of a warm knit and a bit wider so I can pull it over my head and it is very warming and cozy. . .
So if you would like to stitch your own infinity scarf by hand,
this is what you need:
. Fabric - anything that does not fray but stretches
. Cutting Matt
. Rotary Knife (optional)
. Plastic Ruler
. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Gutermann Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Thin Pins
. Embroidery Scissors
. Fabric Scissors
STEP ONE
First decide what shape your infinity scarf should have. This project demonstrates a thinner version, that serves as a headband but also a necklace or scarf.
The width should fit twice around your head, add about 1.5cm for seam allowance. The height is about 33cm but again decide what suits your purpose. The grain line runs with the length of the rectangle.
STEP TWO
Then pin the (shorter) edges (pic 2).
I usually fold the material so the wrong side is inside and the felled seam you will create will be outside. The reason for this: When you wear the scarf it twists and so when the inside is visible it looks neat and still attractive and the seam being placed on the outside gives another element to look at (pic 5+6).
STEP ONE
First decide what shape your infinity scarf should have. This project demonstrates a thinner version, that serves as a headband but also a necklace or scarf.
The width should fit twice around your head, add about 1.5cm for seam allowance. The height is about 33cm but again decide what suits your purpose. The grain line runs with the length of the rectangle.
STEP TWO
The width should fit twice around your head, add about 1.5cm for seam allowance. The height is about 33cm but again decide what suits your purpose. The grain line runs with the length of the rectangle.
STEP TWO
Then pin the (shorter) edges (pic 2).
STEP THREE
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying and then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start.(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)
(fot the knot also see http://icancu4more.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/diy-hand-stitched-wash-bag.html)
Start stitching. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up very close to the first hole which seems to give it more hold. Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch.
The stitches should have a nice rhythm. Too wide leaves a gap, too narrow might ruin the fabric. When you reached the end run your finger along the stitching from the beginning to the end to find the right tension between fabric and thread. Too tight and the fabric looses its stretch, too loose and the thread makes loops.
Finish as you started. Loop the last stitch around to the front and down next to the same hole, make a double knot in the same place (on the wrong side) by using your nail and a single knot further away, trim the thread. Ideally both knots the first one and the last one are on the same side.
STEP FOUR
Pin the seams to the side where your knots are (so they will hide under the seam). Thread your needle, it is nice to use a contrasting colour for this eye-catching cross stitch.
The start is the same as for the straight stitch by looping your thread around the edge. Come up next to the loop and make the first bottom part of the cross stitch, the needle should come up at the same distance from the edge as the stitch that came up next to the loop. The top part is exactly the same as the bottom part but moved to the right and you come up at the same distance from the edge as the last stitch that came up on the bottom. . . Keep your top and bottom parts of your cross stitch in a line so your stitch looks regular with a nice rhythm. In the last pic you can see the wrong side.
End as you started by creating a loop that goes to the back right next to the last stitch. Knot off and trim.
Enjoy!
(fot the knot also see http://icancu4more.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/diy-hand-stitched-wash-bag.html)
Start stitching. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up very close to the first hole which seems to give it more hold. Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch.
The stitches should have a nice rhythm. Too wide leaves a gap, too narrow might ruin the fabric. When you reached the end run your finger along the stitching from the beginning to the end to find the right tension between fabric and thread. Too tight and the fabric looses its stretch, too loose and the thread makes loops.
Finish as you started. Loop the last stitch around to the front and down next to the same hole, make a double knot in the same place (on the wrong side) by using your nail and a single knot further away, trim the thread. Ideally both knots the first one and the last one are on the same side.
STEP FOUR
Pin the seams to the side where your knots are (so they will hide under the seam). Thread your needle, it is nice to use a contrasting colour for this eye-catching cross stitch.
The start is the same as for the straight stitch by looping your thread around the edge. Come up next to the loop and make the first bottom part of the cross stitch, the needle should come up at the same distance from the edge as the stitch that came up next to the loop. The top part is exactly the same as the bottom part but moved to the right and you come up at the same distance from the edge as the last stitch that came up on the bottom. . . Keep your top and bottom parts of your cross stitch in a line so your stitch looks regular with a nice rhythm. In the last pic you can see the wrong side.
End as you started by creating a loop that goes to the back right next to the last stitch. Knot off and trim.
Enjoy!
Make your own Wash / Gadget / Storage Bag
I always need a container for something so I chose this project to DIY but also because it is easy and fast to do. It is inspired by a design of a book by Amy Carol, this project is used to learn stitching by hand.
What you need:
. Fabric - either 2 T-shirts in colours of your choice or material
. Cutting Matt
. Rotary Knife (optional)
. Plastic Ruler
. 2 Buttons
. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Gutermann Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Thin Pins
. Embroidery Scissors
. Fabric Scissors
. Iron (optional)
How to start:
Step ONE
Iron your material/T-shirt. If you use a T-shirt then this will determine the maximal width and height of your pouch. Keep in mind that the ratio length to width should be easy to use as in don't make it to narrow and deep or short and wide. Cut a rectangle which is double the length of your final pouch, the bottom part is where you fold it in half. Test your shape by folding it over and see whether it has a good ratio.
Repeat with your 2nd choice of fabric. Depending on the designated use choose probably a brighter or lighter colour for the inside to make it easier to search for the content.
Step TWO
Fold your rectangle in half, right sides facing each other, wrong sides outside. Pin the left and right edge as seen in pic 3.
It is good if you pin the inner pouch a tick smaller so it fits nicely later in the project when you place the inner pouch into the outer pouch.
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying and then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start.
(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)
Start stitching from the top. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up through the same hole (actually next to it to prevent the material from getting a hole) which seems to give it more hold.(pic 4-5)
Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch. (pic 5-7)
The stitches should have a nice rhythm. Too wide leaves a gap too narrow might ruin the fabric. When you reached the end run your finger along the stitching from the beginning to the end to find the right tension between fabric and thread. Too tight and the fabric looses its stretch, too loose and the thread makes loops. (pic 8-9) Finish as you started. Loop the first stitch around to the back and up through, next to the same hole (pic 10), make a double knot in the same place by using your nail (pic 11) and a single knot further away, trim the thread. (pic 12)
You have finished the first part of your pouch.
Step THREE
Turn your pouch to the right side and fold your seams (now inside) to one side (This is a felled seam on the wrong side). (You can iron again if you wish.) Fold and pin the right edge of the pouch to the back and the left edge to the front. You will do the opposite for the second pouch, so in the end when you fit the inner one into the outer pouch the seams on both sides face opposite directions. The reason for this: you don't need to sew through all layers and it leaves the top corners more flexible.
You have pinned your seams now thread your needle and stitch both edges in a straight stitch. (I used a cross stitch on the outer pouch for decorative reasons but it also gives more stretch, if you don't know this cross stitch yet, use a straight stitch. How to do a cross stitch will be published soon.) (top pic 1-2)(below pic 1)
When you repeated Step TWO and THREE for your second pouch you should have 2 bags stitched on both edges with additional felled seams (inside).
Step FOUR
Place the outer pouch into the inner pouch, right sides facing each other (pic 2-3). Pin the top edge and leave some open to be able to turn the pouches to the right side later. Thread your needle and do the single and double knots and start sewing from one side of the opening all around to the other side. Knot off, trim, and turn your pouches to the right side.
Step FIVE
Prepare your loops using scrap material, cut it along the grain to have less stretch. If you use single Jersey you will notice that the edges curl up. This is exactly what makes the loop. The length of your loop is determined by the size of your button, see in pic 7-9. Rather stretch the loop when you adjust it around your button because it will stretch more later anyway. Pin the ends of your loop together where your button needs it and sew them together using the same knots and stitching as before, knot off, trim. Place your loops in the right position where you want to have your buttons (take care that the gaps are not too big so the pouch closes nicely). You can also place the loops into their position in Step FOUR.
Step SIX
Pin your top edge and sew around in a straight stitch starting on one edge and all the way around, fixing the loops in place. Don't forget to loop the first and last stitch, knot off, trim.
FINISH
To make sure your loops are safe you can stitch them onto the material another time further up as seen in pic 12. Iron your pouch if required. Finally determine where to fold your pouch over and mark the position for your buttons (pic 10). Sew your buttons onto the pouch through both layers.
Done!
Repeat in different colours, sizes and for different occasions. (I did a single layer version for recyclable gift wrap.)
I always need a container for something so I chose this project to DIY but also because it is easy and fast to do. It is inspired by a design of a book by Amy Carol, this project is used to learn stitching by hand.
What you need:
. Fabric - either 2 T-shirts in colours of your choice or material
. Rotary Knife (optional)
. Plastic Ruler
. 2 Buttons
. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Gutermann Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Thin Pins
. Embroidery Scissors
. Fabric Scissors
. Iron (optional)
It is good if you pin the inner pouch a tick smaller so it fits nicely later in the project when you place the inner pouch into the outer pouch.
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying and then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start.
Start stitching from the top. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up through the same hole (actually next to it to prevent the material from getting a hole) which seems to give it more hold.(pic 4-5)
Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch. (pic 5-7)
The stitches should have a nice rhythm. Too wide leaves a gap too narrow might ruin the fabric. When you reached the end run your finger along the stitching from the beginning to the end to find the right tension between fabric and thread. Too tight and the fabric looses its stretch, too loose and the thread makes loops. (pic 8-9) Finish as you started. Loop the first stitch around to the back and up through, next to the same hole (pic 10), make a double knot in the same place by using your nail (pic 11) and a single knot further away, trim the thread. (pic 12)
You have finished the first part of your pouch.
Step THREE
Turn your pouch to the right side and fold your seams (now inside) to one side (This is a felled seam on the wrong side). (You can iron again if you wish.) Fold and pin the right edge of the pouch to the back and the left edge to the front. You will do the opposite for the second pouch, so in the end when you fit the inner one into the outer pouch the seams on both sides face opposite directions. The reason for this: you don't need to sew through all layers and it leaves the top corners more flexible.
You have pinned your seams now thread your needle and stitch both edges in a straight stitch. (I used a cross stitch on the outer pouch for decorative reasons but it also gives more stretch, if you don't know this cross stitch yet, use a straight stitch. How to do a cross stitch will be published soon.) (top pic 1-2)(below pic 1)
When you repeated Step TWO and THREE for your second pouch you should have 2 bags stitched on both edges with additional felled seams (inside).
Step FOUR
Place the outer pouch into the inner pouch, right sides facing each other (pic 2-3). Pin the top edge and leave some open to be able to turn the pouches to the right side later. Thread your needle and do the single and double knots and start sewing from one side of the opening all around to the other side. Knot off, trim, and turn your pouches to the right side.
Step FIVE
Prepare your loops using scrap material, cut it along the grain to have less stretch. If you use single Jersey you will notice that the edges curl up. This is exactly what makes the loop. The length of your loop is determined by the size of your button, see in pic 7-9. Rather stretch the loop when you adjust it around your button because it will stretch more later anyway. Pin the ends of your loop together where your button needs it and sew them together using the same knots and stitching as before, knot off, trim. Place your loops in the right position where you want to have your buttons (take care that the gaps are not too big so the pouch closes nicely). You can also place the loops into their position in Step FOUR.
Step SIX
Pin your top edge and sew around in a straight stitch starting on one edge and all the way around, fixing the loops in place. Don't forget to loop the first and last stitch, knot off, trim.
FINISH
To make sure your loops are safe you can stitch them onto the material another time further up as seen in pic 12. Iron your pouch if required. Finally determine where to fold your pouch over and mark the position for your buttons (pic 10). Sew your buttons onto the pouch through both layers.
Done!
Repeat in different colours, sizes and for different occasions. (I did a single layer version for recyclable gift wrap.)
Create packaging for light gifts and get familiar with stitching by hand
What you need:
. A cutting matt
. A paper cutting knife
. A plastic ruler (sew easy metric sew square)
. Some of your kids IKEA paper roll.
Or any other stronger paper that you can fold nicely and is not as stiff as ordinary copy paper (too heavy paper would break when you fold it unless you make a groove first)
. Buttonhole thread in a colour of your choice. (Gutermann Top Stitch Thread)
. A needle that has an eye big enough for your thread (Milward Sharps no4)
. optional a pen to write onto your packaging (edding calligraphy pen 2.0)
Measure your gift and add on the left and right side about 1cm each for your stitching (if it is thicker a bit more).
The length needs to be double the length of your gift, if it is thicker add a bit in length plus about a third of the length of your gift for the triangle flap to fold over.
(So 2x gift length + a bit (if it is thicker) + 1/3 gift length to fold over)
When you have cut the paper fold it over after the first gift length which makes the bottom of your packaging and try whether your gift is likely to fit in after sewing the edges (I just mention this because of my own experience).
Cut your thread, make it much longer than 2x gift length.
Thread your needle.
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying and then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start.
(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)
Start stitching from the top. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up through the same hole which seems to give it more hold)
Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch. You can do this by turning your paper over each time you go through the paper to see where the next stitch should be. (Too close stitches rip the paper, too wide ones leave a gap. The stitches should have a nice rhythm.)
Finish as you started: loop over to the back through the same hole, make 2 knots in the same place close to the paper and one single one about 1cm further away. Ideally both knots are on the same side. If you don't mark the wholes in the first place just adapt the length of your stitches going towards the end.
Cut your thread 2mm away from the last knot.
Repeat on the other side.
Cut the triangle by dividing the top in half and cutting to each top corner.
If you want to write a message on your packaging do it before you put in your gift, keeping the triangle flap in mind. As this wrapping is made of paper don't touch it too much as it might leave your gift wrap creased. If you want hold the triangle flap in place with some glue stick.
. A cutting matt
. A paper cutting knife
. A plastic ruler (sew easy metric sew square)
. Some of your kids IKEA paper roll.
Or any other stronger paper that you can fold nicely and is not as stiff as ordinary copy paper (too heavy paper would break when you fold it unless you make a groove first)
. Buttonhole thread in a colour of your choice. (Gutermann Top Stitch Thread)
. A needle that has an eye big enough for your thread (Milward Sharps no4)
. optional a pen to write onto your packaging (edding calligraphy pen 2.0)
Measure your gift and add on the left and right side about 1cm each for your stitching (if it is thicker a bit more).
The length needs to be double the length of your gift, if it is thicker add a bit in length plus about a third of the length of your gift for the triangle flap to fold over.
(So 2x gift length + a bit (if it is thicker) + 1/3 gift length to fold over)
When you have cut the paper fold it over after the first gift length which makes the bottom of your packaging and try whether your gift is likely to fit in after sewing the edges (I just mention this because of my own experience).
Cut your thread, make it much longer than 2x gift length.
Thread your needle.
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying and then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start.
(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)
Start stitching from the top. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up through the same hole which seems to give it more hold)
Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch. You can do this by turning your paper over each time you go through the paper to see where the next stitch should be. (Too close stitches rip the paper, too wide ones leave a gap. The stitches should have a nice rhythm.)
Finish as you started: loop over to the back through the same hole, make 2 knots in the same place close to the paper and one single one about 1cm further away. Ideally both knots are on the same side. If you don't mark the wholes in the first place just adapt the length of your stitches going towards the end.
Cut your thread 2mm away from the last knot.
Repeat on the other side.
Cut the triangle by dividing the top in half and cutting to each top corner.
If you want to write a message on your packaging do it before you put in your gift, keeping the triangle flap in mind. As this wrapping is made of paper don't touch it too much as it might leave your gift wrap creased. If you want hold the triangle flap in place with some glue stick.
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