Travel Sewing Kit

Where are you going?

This was the question my husband asked when I showed him my new Hand Stitched Travel Sewing Kit. The answer was sadly, nowhere.

My head is spinning, there is the collection that wants to be finished and presented, there are 2 books to study more sewing and pattern making techniques that want to be worked through and there is already a new project that I want to realize. I could not make up my mind of what to do first, so I had a cup of tea and decided to make a Hand Stitched Travel Sewing Kit. 

Where am I traveling to? Well, I am fed up with thinking of where to put the magnet, especially not next to the computer and also the threads and pins got tangled up. I wanted to make one in the very beginning when I started sewing by hand. But the design wasn't mine and I also questioned the practical value of the design. 

This version is not much designed and thought through but it suits my needs. The scissors are secured, the threads held in place and the sewing needles are in a separate location from the pins.

It needed to be very small in case I really travel as I have to give up any space in a suitcase for toys and extra clothes for boys. I also did not want to have to extra pad it so I put a layer of felt around it. It is made out of a too small T-shirt of the boys and some leftover materials and it is easy to close with a strip of jersey.

So were am I traveling to? From my studio to the living room, to nanny's television room and probably sometimes to the park.

How-to sew a Hand stitched skirt

A DIY-sewing project by i can cu

Now, after practicing the Cross stitch ;)it is time to start the first project. It should be the season of showing more leg but it is also nice to wear one over leggings or tights, a skirt. This project is easy and can be repeated over and over again, shorter, longer, softer, brighter . . 

What you need
. Stretchy Jersey (anything that drapes nicely)
. Bottom seam of a T-shirt or a fold-over elastic band
. Thin Pins
. Gutermann Buttonhole / Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Embroidery Scissors
. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Cutting Matt
. Plastic Ruler
. Tape Measure
. Rotary Cutter
. Tailor's chalk or an erasable pen
. Fabric scissors

Measurements
First measure around your waist, your hips and around the widest part of your bottom.

Ready?
Half the fabric, align it and cut the edges straight (on one side, which will be the raw end of the skirt).Choose the length of your skirt, mark it and cut again.Cut the fabric in half now along the grain line using your fabric scissors, which leaves you with 2 halves of your skirt.Take one half and half it again along the grain line. Transfer the measurements taken earlier starting from the edge: first the waist measurement, leaving a 10 cm gap, then mark the hip measurement, leaving again a 10 cm gap and then mark the last measurement.Connect these 3 marks with your chalk or erasable pen, add 1 cm for seam allowance and cut, using your rotary cutter. Repeat the same for the other half. Half this half, transfer your measurements leaving a 10 cm gap between them, connect the marks and add 1 cm seam allowance and cut. If you don't like the angle and it would make your skirt too wide or too narrow, slightly adapt it but leave the waist measurement at the original point or very close to it, otherwise your waistband will have to accommodate too much fabric and this will make it very wavy.

Assembling
Now you can start pinning. Assemble both skirt halves, right sides facing each other, pin both ends first, which helps to align the fabric and then pin the rest, repeat for the other side.

Take about 2.5 skirt lengths of your thread and cut it in an angle to thread your needle  easier. Make one single knot close to the edge and make a double knot about 7 mm further up. See here and here for knot details.

Start sewing with making a loop (up through the fabric, around the edge and up through the fabric again right next to the previous hole) and continue in a straight line a straight stitch, try to stay about 8 mm from the edge and keep the stitches even.

When you reached the end run your fingers along the stitches finding the right tension between fabric and thread. Finish with a loop and knot off, first make a double knot close to the fabric using your nails to gently push it there and a single knot a bit further away, trim.

Repeat on the other side. The single knot, the double knot, loop around the edge, the straight stitch, adjusting the tension, the loop, double knot, single knot, trim.
Turn the skirt to the right side and fold one seam to the back and start pinning. On the other side fold the seam the same way, so they both face back and pin too.

The Cross Stitch
Thread the needle, make a single and double knot and loop the thread around the edge of your fabric. Choose to loop through the folded seam (thicker). Come up again through the fabric (below the created line) making the first bottom part of the cross stitch. 
The top part of the cross stitch is exactly the same but moved to the right. You always come up again where the last stitch ended.

Down and through the fabric for the bottom part, come up again to finish the bottom part where the last top stitch ended and move to the top part and through the fabric again, up and so on. Finished one side, make a loop and the knots, trim and repeat on the other side. Keep the top and bottom part of your cross stitch in a line, so the stitch looks regular. If you have to restart with a new thread make your knots and continue. More details for the cross stitch here. 

The Waist Band

Use as much waist band as comfortable around your waist and add 2 cm for overlap. 
Start pinning at the back, half the elastic band, and pin again. Quarter the elastic band and pin. . . Pin you way around, and keep checking that the fabric is fully tucked in while stretching it.Start sewing a cross stitch next to the overlap (so you go over the overlap in the end). The first few stitches can be tricky but as soon as you moved along it will be easier to find a rhythm again. Do the cross stitch all the way around so the last stitch meshes the first. Knot off, trim. Finished!I hope you enjoyed making this skirt, here is the movie this project is referring to. Thank you and see you at i can cu!

Cross action (DIY cross stitch)

Cross stitching practice

You never know when you will need this gorgeous cross stitch - 
it might be very soon ;) 
So if you have a moment give it a try.

To sew a Hand stitched top or to mend jeans this cross stitch is versatile and an eye-catcher and stretchy!

You need: 

Material of your choice pinned, a needle (sharps#4), buttonhole thread and embroidery/fabric scissors.

THE KNOTS

Take about 2 arm's lengths of your thread or whatever length feels comfortable and thread your needle. 

Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying.
And then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start and end.
(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)



For the cross stitch create 2 imaginary lines and let the cross stitch run along them. I usually choose to hold the fabric like shown below, with the seam folded upwards. (If you sew from the edge start with making a loop around the edge like shown at the infinity scarf project here: http://icancu4more.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/diy-hand-stitched-infinity-scarf.html)

THE CROSS STITCH

Come up on the top (after the loop if you sew from the edge) and make the first bottom part of the cross stitch while moving a cross stitch width to the right.

The top part is exactly the same as the bottom part but moved to the right and then the next bottom part is again exactly the same as the top part moved to the right, the rhythm is determined by the width of your stitch.

Keep your top and bottom parts of your cross stitch in a line so your stitch looks regular with a nice rhythm.

KNOT OFF
End as you started (if you sew from the edge end by creating a loop from the back, around to the front and back again right next to the last stitch) and knot off using first the double knot. Slide the first knot of the double knot with your nail close to the fabric but do not pull the thread while doing this. Repeat for the second knot of the double knot. Followed by the single knot about 1cm away, trim.

Sometimes it can take a while to create a nice rhythm but start at a non prominent place.

And now you can watch The movie to learn the Cross Stitch:

If you enjoyed watching this movie, please don't forget to like and share it, thank you!

Yoga socks ready for their journey

From fabric to packaging

I had a good working day. . .and a very busy one. I prepared a pair of Hand stitched yoga socks 

for their journey and doing that included packaging and screen printing. I happened to have some hours on my own which is a rare occurence and only arises spontaneously and is completely impossible to plan. So I enjoyed myself and only stopped for a brief break for my yoga set and a snack.
My working day has not finished yet but for now I will devote myself to my family . . .

DIY Hand stitched infinity scarf

DIY Hand stitched infinity scarf / head band / necklace / accessories / emergency scarf for freezing kids . . .

I don't think I have enough infinity scarves. My first Hand stitched infinity scarf was made out of a bit of scrap material. I found a piece of cashmere knit exactly the right size to fit twice around my head. The material (rectangle) was longer along the grain line which was fine for me because it stretches less this way and is perfect for a headband that keeps its shape.

So that is how my infinity scarf production started and I adapted it in many different ways. One for example is made out of the leftovers of an Organic Cotton jersey top I made and turned into a scarf with lots of necklaces. Another one is made of a warm knit and a bit wider so I can pull it over my head and it is very warming and cozy. . . So if you would like to stitch your own infinity scarf by hand, 
this is what you need:
. Fabric - anything that does not fray but stretches
. Cutting Matt
. Rotary Knife (optional)
. Plastic Ruler
. Milward Sharps Needle No4
. Gutermann Top Stitch Thread in colour(s) of your choice
. Thin Pins
. Embroidery Scissors
. Fabric Scissors

STEP ONE

First decide what shape your infinity scarf should have. This project demonstrates a thinner version, that serves as a headband but also a necklace or scarf. 
The width should fit twice around your head, add about 1.5cm for seam allowance. The height is about 33cm but again decide what suits your purpose. The grain line runs with the length of the rectangle.

STEP TWO

Then pin the (shorter) edges (pic 2).

I usually fold the material so the wrong side is inside and the felled seam you will create will be outside. The reason for this: When you wear the scarf it twists and so when the inside is visible it looks neat and still attractive and the seam being placed on the outside gives another element to look at (pic 5+6).

STEP THREE 
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying and then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start.(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)

(fot the knot also see http://icancu4more.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/diy-hand-stitched-wash-bag.html) 

Start stitching. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up very close to the first hole which seems to give it more hold. Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch. 

The stitches should have a nice rhythm. Too wide leaves a gap, too narrow might ruin the fabric. When you reached the end run your finger along the stitching from the beginning to the end to find the right tension between fabric and thread. Too tight and the fabric looses its stretch, too loose and the thread makes loops. 

Finish as you started. Loop the last stitch around to the front and down next to the same hole, make a double knot in the same place (on the wrong side) by using your nail and a single knot further away, trim the thread. Ideally both knots the first one and the last one are on the same side.

STEP FOUR

Pin the seams to the side where your knots are (so they will hide under the seam). Thread your needle, it is nice to use a contrasting colour for this eye-catching cross stitch. 

The start is the same as for the straight stitch by looping your thread around the edge. Come up next to the loop and make the first bottom part of the cross stitch, the needle should come up at the same distance from the edge as the stitch that came up next to the loop. The top part is exactly the same as the bottom part but moved to the right and you come up at the same distance from the edge as the last stitch that came up on the bottom. . . Keep your top and bottom parts of your cross stitch in a line so your stitch looks regular with a nice rhythm. In the last pic you can see the wrong side. 

End as you started by creating a loop that goes to the back right next to the last stitch. Knot off and trim.

Enjoy!

And now you can also watch The movie for making a Hand stitched infinity scarf:

If you enjoyed watching this movie please don't forget to like an share it, thank you!!! ♥ handmade!

DIY packaging 4 your gift

Create packaging for light gifts and get familiar with stitching by hand

I thought it is a nice thing to make: some packaging made by yourself and sewn by hand. It is a good start if you are new to sewing by hand. You can also experiment with different materials. . . make it yourself and find instructions here.

Create packaging for light gifts and get familiar with stitching by hand

What you need:
. A cutting matt
. A paper cutting knife
. A plastic ruler (sew easy metric sew square)
. Some of your kids IKEA paper roll.
Or any other stronger paper that you can fold nicely and is not as stiff as ordinary copy paper (too heavy paper would break when you fold it unless you make a groove first)
. Buttonhole thread in a colour of your choice. (Gutermann Top Stitch Thread)
. A needle that has an eye big enough for your thread (Milward Sharps no4)
. optional a pen to write onto your packaging (edding calligraphy pen 2.0)

Measure your gift and add on the left and right side about 1cm each for your stitching (if it is thicker a bit more).
The length needs to be double the length of your gift, if it is thicker add a bit in length plus about a third of the length of your gift for the triangle flap to fold over.
(So 2x gift length + a bit (if it is thicker) + 1/3 gift length to fold over)

When you have cut the paper fold it over after the first gift length which makes the bottom of your packaging and try whether your gift is likely to fit in after sewing the edges (I just mention this because of my own experience).

Cut your thread, make it much longer than 2x gift length.
Thread your needle.
Make 1 knot at the very end (about 2mm away from the edge) to prevent fraying and then about 1cm higher make 2 knots in the same place to fixate your thread at the start.
(The double knot in the same place might take a bit of practice)

Start stitching from the top. I loop the first stitch around to the back and up through the same hole which seems to give it more hold)
Then sew in a straight line a straight stitch. You can do this by turning your paper over each time you go through the paper to see where the next stitch should be. (Too close stitches rip the paper, too wide ones leave a gap. The stitches should have a nice rhythm.)

Finish as you started: loop over to the back through the same hole, make 2 knots in the same place close to the paper and one single one about 1cm further away. Ideally both knots are on the same side. If you don't mark the wholes in the first place just adapt the length of your stitches going towards the end.
Cut your thread 2mm away from the last knot.

Repeat on the other side.

Cut the triangle by dividing the top in half and cutting to each top corner.

If you want to write a message on your packaging do it before you put in your gift, keeping the triangle flap in mind. As this wrapping is made of paper don't touch it too much as it might leave your gift wrap creased. If you want hold the triangle flap in place with some glue stick.