More about knickers

Handmade underwear update

It has been about a year since I published this video about how to make your own hand stitched knickers. 
  
In making this video I could expand my knickers collection and now after a year I thought it was time to produce some more. Why? Because the few knickers from the high street, that I did not throw away in case I could not keep up with laundry tasks, are just too uncomfortable in comparison. And I also have a bit of Organic Cotton/Bamboo Jersey left over.

As I am currently experimenting whether working with the machine can come close to the hand-stitched-experience but also to see if I can produce slightly more economic garments with similar effect, I thought I give this project a try on the machine. 
I am writing this post also because some DIY friends possibly did not dare to try to make their own underwear because of the hand stitched madness or not enough time. So now there are no more excuses not to wear the most comfortable underwear ever!

If you watched the video you know how to make a pattern for this project. First you pin the side seams, as in the film, but try to use fewer pins, 3 would do and make sure you pin perpendicular to the sewing direction, you don't want to break the needle. I use a Gutterman sew all thread for the top feed, that is 100% polyester, for the bobbin I use Seraflock, that is a very stretchy thread normally used for swimwear. My machine is a very very old Singer with only the basic stitches. Set the machine to a wide zigzag stitch and put in a needle for stretch material. Let the foot come down so all material is under it, because that avoids problems with the material and thread forming a big knot. Also keep hold of the threads before you start as this helps to prevent these issues as well.
And after a couple of stitches reverse and sew backwards almost to the very edge. Almost because again you don't want to start the argument. Repeat once you arrived at the end of the seam. 

For the leg opening it is a bit different. Use only a few pins like before, and the same setting, but this time don't reverse. The reason for this is that you want no tension between material and thread. (Across the grain you have more stretch.) You know when you put on a garment and it goes ratsch and the thread snapped? So leave about 2 inches of thread in the beginning and then when you went all the way around instead of reversing, overlap the beginning and ending for about 2 inches, before you trim leave some thread. Now bring the hem between your index finger and thumb and stroke around the hem, at least once, you will feel movement between thread and material. Do this until the leg opening feels comfortable when you stretch it, so the thread won't snap when you pull it. Now you can trim.

The elastic band works the same way, only a few pins, 8 should do. Do not reverse but overlap and stroke the finished seam until you cannot feel any tension, trim.

Although it doesn't look nowhere near as good as made by hand - I just love the herringbone stitch, the result is very comfortable and you are prepared and ready to go on holiday in no time ......

Now or never, for MEN only

Once upon a time...

It has been a long time and I only have a minute! 

So ATTENTION this is a new Hand stitched Top available for MEN, made of Organic Bamboo/Cotton Jersey. The photo shows the vest but it would not be a problem to add sleeves. The classic version is black or white, colours can be ordered on demand.

Made to order, the pattern is ready for size S, any other size requires grading, which would only mean the production takes a little longer.

The material is very soft and due the sewing by hand only the spoiling effect is enhanced drastically. Easy to care for and breathable, which means airing is often enough.

PS You don't have to be a Yogi to wear comfortable clothes ;)

Comfortable drop crotch pants and a one piece T-shirt

I am ready for spring!

Where have I been? Weeks have past by but it is still not spring.
I could not care less as I am completely into spring and absolutely denying that I am freezing cold. I also had to fight a bad cold which made me even more ignorant to cold!

But, but, but I progressed in my comfortable Hand stitched 
T-shirt project. The last version posted was a drapey one with one seam at the side. This drape was not very comfortable and also not tummy-friendly so I worked on a legere version, which is fun to wear and comfortable, very. Might post pics of this one later.

But now I have moved away one step. This Hand stitched top is made in one piece, meaning I folded the fabric at the shoulders and cut a hole for the neckline. Consequently there are no seams on top of the arms either. This way the jersey is gently hanging on my shoulders. Again words seem not to be able to describe what I mean. Compared to a normal sleeve, the lack of seems in this area makes an enormous difference.

The side seams have only a touch of batman wings. This gives more freedom of movement to the arm but also relaxes the armpit.

I chose Organic Cotton/Bamboo jersey, which feels gorgeous.
This prototype is short but works for layering with a tank top, but I started already a longer version....

Now to the very comfortable Hand stitched Yoga Pants.
I have posted the white version earlier. 

I have made the experience that wearing white only works if I feel comfortable. So I started to design my Kundalini Yoga outfit. I started with leggings, as it was winter and the need of layering required a simple cut for the pants. But now the layers are about to be reduced or vanish, so I could experiment with the shape of the pants. Saying that this drop crotch version is so comfortable that I might stop wearing leggings!!!!! I wish you could try for yourself. The no impact comfort makes such a difference. Additionally there are 4 tucks on each side, which is a nice element and again adds to the comfort.

So I am switching between designing for Yoga and adapting for urban life or designing for everyday life and creating a white Yoga version......

As I did with the grey Valentine's cardigan ....there is now an off white Yoga Version.


Well I am ready for spring.
Actually skip spring, I am ready for summer.

Au Revoir Bra

French Movie

The days are too short! I am not talking about the season or the weather but lately I love to distract myself with movies. This winter obsession started living on a Remote Island. I am still sort of remote and feel drawn to french movies at the moment. I might have improved my french but it also makes more sense to me to watch a french movie. The last one was not really typical also because it did have a relatively good ending. It was all about Coco Chanel and although I might recognize her style I have not been familiar with how she started in fashion. One sentence in the movie was quite accurate to what I am working on at the moment, something like Don't you want to breathe? 

I am still holding my breath once in a while and I often find myself adjusting a breathing pattern. I am currently also trying to stop coughing as I remember having pulled a muscle which is very painful and I am about to repeat this. And then I keep finding discussions about bra yes or no online and whether the support would be actually greater without one. 

All personal stuff and I guess there are preferences. Since nursing children is part of my past I started questioning the comfort of bras and also developed a Yoga Bra which is very comfortable. But as I am spoiling myself with comfort I have to move on to higher comfort. The result of the last week's impressions is this Hand Stitched Bratank. It is made of Organic Bamboo/Cotton Jersey which contains a small percentage of elastane and is very very nice to wear. The stretch is strong enough to support but gentle enough not to feel wrapped up. The Bratank is in test phase and I will see whether this is it or I still need to watch more french movies. 

Can I ever watch too many?

Woolly Vest for a Cool Land

Warming

I like cool but this is definitely too cool for me. 
As always I understand things much later than they occur, so I wonder how long until I understand what am I doing in this country? I know I have a family here. But if this is the only reason then it is really time to grab them and find a warmer home.

Remember last winter? I froze half of it and then I made those woolly tops and wondered why I did not think of making them earlier. This year I am much cleverer, I started wearing this gorgeously warm layer already in autumn! I love it. The only thing is, wearing a cardigan or jacket on top, they don't reveal any of my nice Hand stitched Tops.

Somehow I do not own any jumpers. I have one but it is made of thick Organic Bamboo Jersey and I occasionally wear it but it is more a large sweater. I think it is because I don't like thick layers and love to move freely. But it is very cold at the moment. Cardigans are nice but too warm in the house and not enough freedom on the move.

So instead of finishing what I need to finish today I thought there is enough time to squeeze in a new prototype. And this is it, made of two pieces it is warm and light and I have lots of freedom. 

And: this Hand stitched Woolly Vest drapes nicely around any Hand stitched Top I am wearing underneath. I am off to continue my work, but might sew some pockets on later.

To warmer days!

Energy boost

Excitement of the unknown

Tired or not I am generated by excitement of new projects and their outcome. I have an idea and and this boost drives me as fast as possible to realize it.

The mat is out, so is the Organic Cotton/Bamboo Jersey, which is  already a pleasure in itself to work with, a fine smooth material. . . .
And soon I will know. . .